Conversation with a Merchant Nomad

When exploring a museum dedicated to trans-Saharan trade, we met a Saharan nomad in his tent behind the building. I was entranced by his charm and hospitality. He had just come back from a long desert voyage and had a collection of jewelry and other goods. Was this really like a museum gift shop? If so, it had the air of authenticity that I've not experienced before. He also didn't try to sell us any of the items around his tent.

This nomad had a vocalization that I didn't hear anywhere else. If he liked or agreed with something, he would utter a low short grunt. It sounded like saying "uhh" by quickly expelling air from your lungs. I was told later that this sound is traditional for the desert people of the Sahara. Of course, he served tea. When we finally said goodbye, he mentioned that we were the most pleasant westerners that he had met, and he valued our time together. If ever I need a travel guide and companion in the desert, I will choose this guy.

My head wrap in this photo is to protect me from the sun--not my poor attempt to be a poseur desert nomad. I had forgotten my hat that day but brought a scarf in case it got cold. When heat and sun became more of a problem, another Berber who was with us helped me go old school with the wrap. He had done the same with his own scarf on his head.