Reading This Blog

Global Roads to Morocco is a travel blog created by Patrick Whelan, a world history teacher at Saint Stephen's Episcopal School in Bradenton, Florida.

Blogs like these are arranged in reverse chronological order, with the earliest posts at the end and the most recent at the top. Readers also have the option of using the archive located to the right in order to find the posts with the most interesting topics.

This blog is not an official US State Department publication. The views and information are my own and do not represent Teachers for Global Classrooms, IREX, or the Department of State.

Those interested in this blog may want to explore my other travel blogs on Istanbul and Cambodia.
Istanbul in October
Angkor Watsup

Lessons Learned in Morocco

Globalization is real. I teach about cultural diffusion in my history class starting with the ancient trade routes and early civilizations. In 2017, we all live in a globalize culture. In a small village deep in the remote part of southern Morocco on the edge of Sahara, all the teenagers know the lyrics to American and British pop songs.

America is seen as the land of opportunity. When I asked teenage students about their personal dreams for the future, nearly everyone said that they wanted to travel. Number one on their lists: the United States. An education at a US university is considered the gold standard.

English is the global language. Moroccan students graduate high school with ability in four or five languages, but English is becoming most important. Because of the saturation of American TV, film, and music, they speak English with an American ascent. If Moroccans want to speak with people from Japan, Tanzania, Russia, or India, they speak in English.

Faith, family, food, and friendship are the core values of Moroccans. Islam doesn't just serve as a faith but a glue that holds people together. Family, food, and friends serve the same purpose. People greet each other warmly and constantly display hospitality.

Marhaba, Shokran

The two most frequent words that I heard in Arabic were marhaba, meaning welcome, and shokran, meaning thank you. Marhaba was said upon entering every home, classroom, shop, or space. If you cross any type of threshold, someone will welcome you. Marhaba. When people used English, marhaba would translate as "you are welcome." The proper response is of course, shokran. In typical American English usage, we reverse these two statements: thank you; you're welcome. In Morocco the default opener is welcome.

So to the people of Morocco, I need to offer my gratitude.
To my teacher host Ayoub, shokran.
To the kind teachers and principal of the Excellence High School, shokran.
To the students, so filled with ambition and idealism, shokran.
To the gracious politicians, Saharan and Amazigh villagers, and those who smiled at me when I passed, shokran.


To Dr. Pullen, my head of school, thank you for being excited for me and affording me this wonderful opportunity.
To the Teachers for Global Classrooms program run though IREX, thank you for choosing me and training me to take full advantage of this fellowship.
To my travel partner Travis and the other ten members of my Moroccan cohort, thank you for your stories and inspiration.
To the US State Department, thank you for providing funds for this travel experience.
To my colleagues at Saint Stephen's, thank you for stepping into my classroom and filling the gap during my absence.
To my wife, thank you for telling me to do this travel adventure despite the great inconvenience it caused you.

Shokran.

Teaching Teachers

Most of my time in Rabat and Guelmim Morocco was spent in classrooms with students, touring sites, and eating meals with groups of locals. One morning Travis and I were able to have a bigger role by offering a workshop to English teachers from the region on effective teaching strategies.

I am very proud of the job that we did modeling active, student-centered learning. The twenty teachers who attended were thoroughly engaged throughout the workshop and were among the best participants that I have ever worked with. They were so pleased that many stayed for over half an hour afterwards to ask questions and continue the conversation.

We made clear several times that we presented this workshop not because the educational system in the US is better--frankly we had seen that the teaching is at least as strong in Morocco as in the US--but because we both were experienced workshop presenters. In this way I tried to avoid the perception of a neo-colonial culturally superior attitude.

Travis, My Travel Partner

The Teachers for Global Classrooms fellowship made the wise decision to deploy us in pairs. In that way we had a partner to filter our experience through and to share cultural observations. I was fortunate to be matched with Travis Bouldin, an accomplished teacher from Washington DC. We travelled together almost everywhere in Guelmim.

Travis teaches world history at a public school that offers a rigorous college-prep environment for young men of color. We have many of the same interests in history and other intellectual fields. He also is a nature lover and has a similar educational philosophy and teaching style as I do. We get to see each other again this summer when we will be together at an AP World History training in Charlotte NC.

Storks Amid History

Capital city of Rabat, like the country itself, has layers of history. Waves of empires have settled and left their mark in this remarkable place. Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Romans, Byzantines, and Arabs of the ancient world controlled parts of Morocco on their outer frontiers of their empires.

No place represents this layering of history better than the Kasbah of Rabat, which contains the ruins of several of these civilizations. Perched atop the ancient ruins were nesting storks. March is mating season for these migratory storks, and several of them were making a racket with their beaks to attract the amorous attention of other storks. This made me think. If storks bring babies to people, then who brings baby storks to storks?

Below you will see the top of an elegant mineret for an early Arab mosque with nesting storks. I have a photo of me near the worship space for this ancient mosque. I also have a short video clip of the storks making their mating calls. You may need to turn up the volume to hear it well.

Storks Mating Season

The Cats of Morocco

The number of cats that I found in Morocco was impressive indeed. The first image comes from a cat hanging out at lunch by a Saharan-style tent. The other two I discovered in some ancient runes in the city of Rabat. 

Budget Breakfast

Most of our mornings we ate breakfast at a cafe that served a Moroccan flavored French fare. On the last morning we didn't have time for a sit-down meal because we needed to get on a bus for the twelve hour trip back to Rabat. Fortunately we had a bakery next to our hotel, and I purchased four loafs of bread and twelve cookies of different sorts for three of us on the bus. Total cost: one dollar. I could not finish just one loaf of bread, and I ended up giving much of the baked goods to our bus driver. 

Student Skype Exchange

My school, Saint Stephen's Episcopal School, has made global education a priority for over ten years. One of the more successful outgrowths of this global initiative is the cross-cultural Skype sessions that we conduct with classrooms in other countries such as Tanzania, China, and Honduras.

On the last day I was able to arrange a quick Skype session between our sixth grade classroom and a group of students at Excellence High School in Guelmim, Morocco. I was overjoyed with the success of this 40 minute exchange. The students sang together, asked questions of each other, and offered well wishes back and forth. We will see what sort of long-lasting connections we can make between our two schools.

In this photo I am outside of the view area so that the girls can talk with the sixth grade class. We are in the principal's office. 

Postcards and Wrist Bands

Based on a suggestion given to me by a teacher who had made a similar trip, I brought postcards that Mrs. Sternberg's eighth grade class had filled out. I used the cheapest Florida tourist postcards that I could find at K-Mart. On the last day I passed out a postcard to every student in a class that had just done a presentation on Islam for us. They were very excited.

We also gave out red silicone wrist bands that we had made that said "Morocco 2017 USA." We brought 500 of these wrist bands to Guelmim and had an easy time giving them away to students that we met. I'm pretty much believe the whole "cross cultural understanding leads to world peace" idea, so this week these simple tokens became objects of both real and symbolic connections between countries, religions, and peoples.  

Carvanserai

Much of my teaching of world history centers on trade systems like the Silk Road, Indian Ocean, and Atlantic systems. I was thrilled then to have a chance to visit a museum of Saharan Trade at a 300 year-old fortified rest stop known as a caravanserai. The exhibits in this incredibly remote outpost were rich with artifacts of the Saharan traders who linked the Mediterranean region with sub-Saharan Africa.

The photo below shows the outside of the old caravanseri, the view of which must have been a huge relief to nomads who had just crossed the desert. Also shown is a wall display of camel saddles, wooden couscous serving plates, and tent stakes. Fun fact: because of the temperatures and celestial navigation, Saharan traders would travel at night and rest during the day. 

Camels

In one of my first blog entries before leaving for Morocco, I mentioned that I expected to see plenty of camels in Guelmim because of its location and its environment. I can say that when it comes to riding camels and seeing other people riding camels, I was disappointed. People ride cars, trucks, motorcycles, and bicycles--not camels.

I did see a few small camel herds when traveling across the countryside, and on the evening of the last day I did visit the camel souk before the big sale the next morning. If not for transportation, what then are camels used for? Food! Camel meat is low in fat and quite tasty. It is best prepared slowly cooked in a traditional clay vessel known as a tajine together with vegetables. So in order to meet the expectations for a tourist to Morocco, I have the necessary camel photos. These guys are ready to be sold the next morning and will most likely be butchered on the spot.

Quran Reading

At the women's festival I was treated to a recitation of the Holy Quran. This boy chanted/sang the scripture much like the plainsong chanting of a psalm in a traditional Christian church.

I later impressed people by asking whether this verse was from the fourth sura of the Quran. I knew that the fourth sura (chapter) deals with women. I also could tell that he was reading from an early part of the Quran since Arabic is read from back to front, right to left. The Quran has 114 suras, so fourth looked about right.

The verse that he read concerns how women should be treated well since Eve first came from the body of Adam. They are formed of one substance, one body. My host Ayoub is in the back of this video clip with the microphone. 

Quran Reading

Women's Day Festival

I am still processing what I experienced at a women's festival in Guelmim in which I was the guest of honor. Our host and my friend Ayoub was the master of ceremonies, and did an amazing job. I sat in the front row together with politicians and dignitaries. The program consisted of singing, a mock wedding ceremony, and a fashion show.

I was called on to give my thoughts to the gathering on what women meant to me. I also helped present framed certificates to women who had led centers for assisting other women.

So what do you notice about the group photo below of the women's festival?

Conversation with a Merchant Nomad

When exploring a museum dedicated to trans-Saharan trade, we met a Saharan nomad in his tent behind the building. I was entranced by his charm and hospitality. He had just come back from a long desert voyage and had a collection of jewelry and other goods. Was this really like a museum gift shop? If so, it had the air of authenticity that I've not experienced before. He also didn't try to sell us any of the items around his tent.

This nomad had a vocalization that I didn't hear anywhere else. If he liked or agreed with something, he would utter a low short grunt. It sounded like saying "uhh" by quickly expelling air from your lungs. I was told later that this sound is traditional for the desert people of the Sahara. Of course, he served tea. When we finally said goodbye, he mentioned that we were the most pleasant westerners that he had met, and he valued our time together. If ever I need a travel guide and companion in the desert, I will choose this guy.

My head wrap in this photo is to protect me from the sun--not my poor attempt to be a poseur desert nomad. I had forgotten my hat that day but brought a scarf in case it got cold. When heat and sun became more of a problem, another Berber who was with us helped me go old school with the wrap. He had done the same with his own scarf on his head.

Guelmim Beads

I've looked over several thick guidebooks on Morocco in order to find out more about  Guelmim. Very little is said about this city of over 100,000 people. The cities of Fez, Marrakech, and Tagiers are given the most attention since that is where the tourists flock to visit the souks with their merchants.

I cannot say that I saw any tourists in Guelmim proper. I did see some French tourists in oasis camping areas in the country side, but they really kept to themselves.  Guelmim is known for its nickname, the Gateway to the Sahara. This is where the great desert begins that stretches across the African continent. It is also known for its camel souk, the largest on the African continent. More on that later. 

Guelmim is also known for its colorful beads that became a cultural fad in the US during the hippy era of the late 1960s. The story is one of globalization. Originally made in Venice, Italy, these beads were a commodity used in the Saharan trade routes. For students of world history, this does not seem extraordinary. Luxury items have been flowing across continents for thousands of years, and these beads were very beautiful.  I can also see how hippies were attracted to them. The carefree Berber nomadic lifestyle was something that the hippies admired. The beads also have an exotic look that fits their aesthetic.

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Brilliant Teaching

As part of our preparation for this teacher travel fellowship, we had been briefed on what to expect in Moroccan schools. The dominant narrative was of a rigid system set up for test preparation with teacher-centered instruction. We were also told of large class sizes and a huge inequality gap between rural and urban schools.  The classrooms that I observed did not fit this narrative. Instruction was varied, cooperative learning was employed, and students spoke often.

One school stood out from the rest, and it was in the least likely place possible: the tiny village of Fask. Look it up on Google Earth. There I found an English teacher who I admire greatly, Abdelmalik.  He chose to teach in the rural area. He is Amazigh, and he has a calling to lift up his community. He feels at home in Fask. The teacher used time effectively and conducted class with a calm demeanor. I could tell that the students loved him. He did a warm up activity and built each part of the lesson to both reinforce basic language instruction and challenge them with rigorous practice.  Abdelmalk has only one full year of experience teaching. The children of Fask Village are lucky indeed.

 

Tea in the Sahara

Everywhere in Morocco I encountered the ritualized presentation and consumption of tea. I can say without exaggeration that tea drinking in Morocco is as culturally significant as tea drinking in China or Japan. I've had tea here before a meal, after a meal, as a separate refreshment, and with a small snack. Three cups at a sitting is typical. Green tea is used and seeped in mint. A huge block of sugar is then added. Delicious! When serving the goal is to have a head of foam on the top of the cup, which requires frequent pours from the tea pot to the cup and back. They higher the pour, the more foam is created.

The photo below shows a rural Amazigh (Berber) making tea after lunch in his tented outdoor dining area beside his house. He honored us by serving camel meat, the best of all possible foods. Afterwards he told us to rest. It didn't take me long to stretch out. Our host lives in a small village. He works as a journalist and has his own radio show that deals with issues of cultural importance for his Amazigh people. The boy working on the cell phone became a close companion. He is known as Yahyah. His father died, and he works as a laborer. Because of his passion for photography, he was brought by our host to photograph our trip.

For some of us, the title of this post "Tea in the Sahara" reminds you of a song by Sting. To satisfy your ear worm, I have the song in the link. Tea in the Sahara

Muslim Stereotypes

Today at the Excellence School, one of the English classes did a lesson on Islam and their lives. The PowerPoint presentation was straight-forward. The students then discussed the image of Islam. The link below to the video clip has a typical response.

Then the discussion went further as students talked about Muslims who have drifted from the faith or don't know their own religion. According to the students that I talked to, those who have not learned much about Islam are the most likely to be attracted to radical websites. This is a different narrative than the idea that radical Muslims are the ones who hold most tightly and rigidly to their faith. 

Student Talk about Stereotypes

Cultural Diffusion

A major theme of world history is cultural diffusion, the influence global connections over time and space. In the case of Morocco, as everywhere, cultural diffusion is abundant. I went to a house where the girls were singing American pop hits after dinner (see the lovely video clip). Game of Thrones is quite popular here among teenagers, who can discuss plot twists with great complexity.

Morocco also has French influence from the time that it was a French protectorate in the early 20th century. What I did not expect to see, however, was a group of five mimes acting during a mock wedding scene during a women's festival. Of all of the aspects of French culture, why did they have to take up miming?

Girls Singing Pop Song

My Most Important Lesson

My most important lesson--but first some context. The educational system for the 33 million people in Morocco is incredibly centralized. A teacher should literally be on the same page doing the same lesson on the same day as every other teacher in the country for the any given subject. The leaders of twelve regional academies oversee this process. Even something as simple as a school visit or a teacher reassignment needs to go through the central educational ministry (thank French imperialism for this Byzantine system). 

Yesterday I gave a short talk on a typical day in the life of a student at Saint Stephen's to an eager English class. I didn't know that I was being filmed live on Facebook. The regional education director was in the capital at a gathering of the national education ministers. He saw the live streaming and showed it to everyone in the room, using it as an example of innovative activities that can be used in the classroom.

That is how a simple talk about my son John and my school became part of a national educational policy discussion.

Favorite Night Yet

My favorite evening so far in Morocco was last night when we had the privilege of enjoying a family meal with the head of school for the Excellence Academy. His five children made the night magical. The older daughters, Marwah and Safa, gave a formal presentation in English on local historical sites because of the two history teachers visiting.

The children were so excited for our visit that they began singing. Listen to this video clip to get an idea of the energy in the room. The plate of treats at the end were all homemade. Later we Skyped with the children's uncle, who is a US citizen living near Washington DC. 

Family singing together

Shape Your Dream

My study question for my Teacher for Global Classrooms fellowship is what does "success" mean for students in Morocco. I have had the opportunity to talk with many teenagers. This video is from a talk that I had with a student at a career fair in Morocco. Her message, particularly at the end, is meant to inspire.  "Arabic women should have the chance to shape their goals and get their dreams."

A Student's Dream

Couscous Cooperative

Couscous is a delicious small-grain pasta common in Mediterranean cooking. In an earlier post I discussed the tradition of couscous Friday dinners. Today we went to a couscous production cooperative, where poorer women can make a living making couscous the old fashioned way.

Aisha is the founder of the cooperative and a very prominent citizen in Guelmim. She has been recognized many times for her outreach and work for economic development including by the king himself. Locally she is known as the "Iron Woman" for her strength and purpose.

We spent a long time joking and having a good time with this pillar of the community. We purchased several bags of couscous (no haggling on this transaction). I paid a bit extra so that they could give a free bag to a family in need. This type of Zakat, or charity, is respected in the Islamic world. 

Below I am pictured with my couscous, Aisha, and the headmaster of Excellence High School.

Roadside Assistance

This morning my guests took us out into a nearby village in order to enjoy a warm mineral spring. Afterwards we saw a camper van in distress. Yesterday Guelmim experienced rain. The river bed washed out the makeshift road that looked like it replaced a bridge that got washed out when the area experienced hard flooding a couple of years ago.

When we got there a collection of people had gathered to move rocks and push an RV that had been stuck in the river bed. A local shepherd even came down from his flocks on the hill to help out. Everyone was working in good spirits and solved the problem for the older French couple.

Bonus: my travel partner Travis was able to talk with the shepherd about his lifestyle. 

Have you been in a situation in which a group of strangers have helped you without asking for anything in return?

A Dinner Show

On my last day in Rabat before heading down to Guelmim, I joined my colleagues for a traditional dinner. We found a small place serving what seems to be the national dish of Morocco, tagine. Tagine (or Tajine) is baked in a clay cooking vessel that holds in the flavor and moisture of the vegetables, meats and spices of the dish. Flat bread is served to help soak up the juices. The restaurant staff played traditional Moroccan music at various times during the evening. Here is a short clip. Moroccan MusicVideo Clip

Breakfast

This morning my host took me to a lovely cafe in Guelmim, which we have decided will be our routine breakfast spot during my week here. This is their standard breakfast. The hot porridge cereal is a barley, milk and herb mix of deliciousness. Notice the olive oil for dipping the bread. Do you notice the French influence in the breakfast choices?  

Music on the Beach

One of the highlights of my beach experience today in Morocco was the trip to a well known rock arch formation on the Atlantic Ocean. When we got there, a group of college students were relaxing, playing music and enjoying each others' company. They included us for a moment, so we talked with them and joined in singing an Adele song.

The guy with the guitar reminded me of my former student and friend Griffin Guinta in his musical talent, personality, and appearance. We also encountered a group of high school kids who were really happy to see their English teacher and head of school with two American guests.  They knew that we were headed their way through social media. They also sang for us. I ended up giving the lead singer a Saint Stephen's collapsible throwing disc. 

Multiple Languages

First a question: in what language do you think people speak to me when I am in the markets or hotels?

One of my great takeaways from this visit has been the incredible language ability of Moroccans. Many people speak Amazigh or some other Berber language that predate the arrival of the Arabs in the 7th century. Moroccan Arabic is also significantly different than standard Arabic. Different vocabulary, grammar, and pronunciation make Moroccan Arabic unintelligible to Arabs outside of the region. Primary school is taught in standard Arabic, so almost all students arrive in the classroom listening to a language that they don't speak at home. I have asked multiple people including language teachers whether Moroccan Arabic is really a different language. They all insist that it is.

Foreign language study in French begins in the lowest grades. English is started in high school. Many Moroccans also know Spanish, especially in the far north or far south. In other words, when I am speaking in English to people in Morocco, they are speaking in their fourth or fifth language. Amazing!

In the souks and other markets the venders are picking up a variety of other languages because of the tourist trade. Italian, Russia, German, Mandarin and even Latvian can now be heard in the market stalls of the traditional souks.

So the answer to the question... French. French everywhere because of the legacy of 20th century imperialism.

Couscous

Every Friday in Morocco, families gather together to share in a special meal featuring couscous.  Friday is the Muslim day of corporate worship and a time of special togetherness. The couscous meal draws people together. So this Friday our cohort of American teachers were treated to a traditional couscous meal with slow cooked vegetables and beef. Delicious. Do your families have a traditional meal at certain times of the week?

English Education in Morocco

Our cohort of American teachers have received several briefings on Moroccan education: at our seminar in Washington DC last month, at the American embassy in Rabat, and at a presentation by an English language teacher from Rabat.

The common thread has been the problems associated with a system too reliant on high-stakes national exams and centralized authority. On any day in Morocco a visitor should be able to step in any classroom and see students literally on the same page of the same textbook if the grade level and subject area are the same. 

English classes this week seem to be studying healthy versus unhealthy foods. I think that this topic is impressive since it involves learning English in the context of a larger lesson on nutrition. In one English classroom students had written foods under titles of "healthy" and "unhealthy." In another school English students had made little posters about healthy eating and healthy living.

What do you see as the advantages and disadvantages of a centralized national curriculum? 

An Inspiring Teacher

I typically don't have a problem finding fascinating people. The world is full of so many generous folks willing to talk about the most interesting ideas. While at Abidar Al Ghifari High School I met Amina Elyabass, whose classroom was filled with bright informed students.

After our initial talk I meet her daughter Kaouthar Kada, who is almost more impressive. She works for a non-government organization (NGO) that helps young people with leadership for business entrepreneurship. Most of her clients are women. The king of Morocco has made private sector economic growth a priority in recent years, and Kaouthar is doing her part to make that happen. Her dream is to one day bring her vision of empowerment to India. The charm that is on her necklace is a calligraphic rendition of the first verse (or sura) of the Qur'an.

Especially in Morocco family togetherness is of paramount importance. 

Call to Prayer

We traveled as a group to visit the Hassan Tower, which has the remaining columns and unfinished mineret of what was intended to be the second largest mosque in the world in 1195. As I was about to leave, the call to prayer began. It was an intense experience listening in that ancient place to the words calling the faithful to devotion.

Call to Prayer

The Hijab

One of the most complex issues when exploring Islam today is the notion of gender in Islam. Dress and modesty are major aspects in which culture is revealed publically. In Rabat many women and older girls cover their hair with a headscarf called Hijab, which is also the Arabic word for modesty. Many others do not. Our amazing in-country escort and consultant, Houdia, said that she didn't wear the hijab much until she made the Hajj pilgrimage to Mecca last year. Since then it has just felt like she wanted to wear it.

From what I have seen, girls who wear the hijab mix with girls who don't and also boys quite freely. The video clip that I have is of a girl who at the end of one of our question and answer sessions just took the time to volunteer her idea of the Hijab. She wanted us to know that women who wear it can participate fully in society and that it does not hold them back. Her comment was applauded widely by a wide group of students in the class, including those not wearing the head scarf.

Photos include a young group of English teachers in training and a group of enthusiastic students who listened patiently to one of our presentations. 

Student's View of Hijab 

Video of a Moroccan Student

Today I visited an innovative school in Rabat. I have heard a great deal of criticism of the educational system here being too test centered and too programmed from the ministry of education. The Abi Al Ghifar High School clearly had ventured outside of the boundaries of a typical school curriculum and had students doing more interactive projects. I saw the results of this through the leadership of the students and their open way of communicating.

One of my research questions here has been "what do Moroccan students consider to be success?"  I decided to interview a girl whose language and leadership skills impressed me. So this is Atika loualidi answering my question, "what is your dream?"  What do you think of Atika's answer?

Student Discussing Her Dream 

School of Distinction

This morning we visited one of he best high schools in the capital city. Moulay Youssef High School was founded in 1916 during the French Colonial era and attracts some of the strongest students in the region. Many of the students are enrolled in post high school preparatory program that operates like a post-graduate (PG) two years before they enroll in competitive medical and engineering programs.

We visited three classes: an advanced calculus class for the preparatory students, a 10th grade biology class, and a small class that was working on translating science textbooks from French to Arabic.  Students were enthusiastic to see us and were quite open and friendly. Almost all spoke English very well.  One of the students spoke with me about going to college in the United States. Her mother had died recently, and her sister had lost her ambition. She feels that she needs to reach further as a result. I suggested some options for her to consider when applying to American university. 

The class in the photo below is the sophomore biology class. I talked with the girl in the lower right. She was charming and exceedingly polite. The boy in the grey sweatshirt asked the first question, "what do you think of your Donald Trump?" The class got quite animated with his abrupt query. I was expecting this question from Moroccan students but did not expect it to be the first question asked. Fairly quickly the headmaster shut down the line of inquiry since it is against school rules to discuss politics.

 

The Medina

The old city of Rabat is known as the Medina, an area of tight pathways and open air markets enclosed by an old city wall.  Walking in the souks, or marketplaces, of the Medina is a dive into the culture of Morocco. Unlike the marketplaces in more touristic cities like Fez, Marrakech, or Tangier, the souks of Rabat don't see quite as many Americans and Europeans. This is a good thing, because the merchants are a bit more low-key and don't employ the hard-sell tactics of other souks.  The first photo shows the gate into the Medina with clothes venders. Clothes could be purchased in some cases for less than a dollar. The other photo shows a typical market stall in the souk. 

Arriving in Rabat

Rabat serves as the capital of Morocco. Other cities in Morocco are larger (Casablanca) or more tourist-oriented (Fez, Marrakech). Even so, I have really enjoyed the few hours that I have been here. The airport in Rabat is modest and easy to get through. Security was present but not heavy handed. My hotel in the downtown area as been splendid. My cure for jet lag is activity, so I have had a chance to walk around quite a bit. The first photo shows the outside of the airport and the second the view out my hotel balcony. 

Security in Morocco

An advantage of traveling with a fellowship supported by the State Department is the added layer of information and protection provided by our government. Two weeks ago those of us traveling to Morocco received a 40-minute briefing from a security consultant. He said that Morocco is designated as a medium threat risk and has a robust security system in place with well trained forces throughout the country.

We were given several strategies for how to manage ourselves in order to avoid potentially dangerous situations, all of which involve using common sense. Don't bring out big rolls of cash. Don't go to marketplaces at peak times. Have heightened situational awareness when in airports, among crowds, and at night. One hint that I did not know before: the first time that we leave any hotel room, we should take the emergency exit.

Morocco is way down on the list of dangerous place to visit. Syria is on top.  The consultant said that by far the most dangerous risk is vehicular accidents. Car crashes are the leading cause of death for humanitarian aid workers in Afghanistan and Iraq--not violence and terrorism. He also recommended sunscreen. People are notorious for over-emphasizing certain risks and under-emphasizing others. For me skin cancer is a real concern in the bright Saharan sun of Morocco. Terrorism is much less of a concern. 

I have attached a State Department resource for travelers that lists warnings and alerts--yet again another great service provided by our outstanding State Department. Are there any countries that you would want to visit that presently have security concerns?

Travel Warnings and Alerts

Teachers for Global Classrooms

Several times over the past few weeks my friends and students have asked me, "why are you going to Morocco?" I must say that I am very fortunate to have this extraordinary adventure. Teachers for Global Classrooms sponsors travel fellowships for American teachers, and TGC was gracious enough to accept me this year. The program has several components starting with an on-line graduate-level course this past Fall on global education followed by a symposium in February. After the travel fellowship component, I will publish on-line a global education guide for teachers in my community. This U.S. State Department sponsors this amazing program.

This year over 70 teachers from a diversity of disciplines and grade levels will be deployed as citizen diplomats to six counties: India, Indonesia, Colombia, Senegal, Philippines, and Morocco. Twelve of us will be gathering in Rabat for a few days before splitting into pairs for our field experience. The photo above is our group in Washington DC gathered for our symposium. My field partner Travis is standing in the far back. By the way the woman in front is pointing to the Moroccan flag behind me.

I have linked below the website for TGC in case you want more information about this organization.  Teachers for Global Classrooms

On the Road to Morocco

In the 1940s Bob Hope and Bing Crosby starred in several "on the road" movies set in exotic locales. Always cheesy, these musical films put these singing jokesters in bizarre situations. When I found out that I was going to Morocco as part of Teachers for Global Classrooms, my good friend Jay Harmon sent me a link to the old film. Combining the movie title with my trip's theme of global education is how I came up with the title of my blog: Global Roads to Morocco.

I have linked below the opening song. Note how Morocco is portrayed in the this exposition. The dance of the seven veils, sleeping on nails, sawing wives in half, and villains that they may meet are all mentioned with a musical tone of the exotic. Somehow I think that the Morocco that I will encounter will be filled with adventures and surprises but not of the type that this song relates. 

One thing I can say with some certainty--I should be seeing plenty of camels. Guelmim, the place where I am headed, is famous for its camel market, and my host is planning on taking me there. I won't see the two-humped Bactrian camel shown in the film clip. Those are from central Asia and more connected to the ancient Silk Road trade system. The camels that I will encounter will be the one-hump dromedary camels. 

For those who have never been to Morocco, what are the associations that you have with Morocco?

  On the Road to Morocco